When I rig a northlans reed runner magnum do I put the soft plastic on the front of rear hook?

Thanks for the heads-up. If your Reed Runner Magnum doesn’t use treble hooks, the rigging approach shifts a bit because you don’t have two hooks to work around. I’ll lay out two common scenarios and how to set the soft plastic in each. If you can share a quick photo or the exact model (front-hook, rear-hook, or single inline), I’ll tailor it precisely.

• Scenario A: Single hook toward the rear of the lure (hook sits near the tail)

  • Goal: keep the hook accessible for bites while using the plastic to add tail action.
  • Rigging:
    • Choose a 3–4 inch soft minnow/swimbait.
    • Thread the plastic so that it runs along the body and sits behind the lure’s head, with the tail extending past the hook’s shaft.
    • Make sure the hook point remains unobstructed and accessible.
    • If the plastic slides, use a light dab of super glue at the head or a small peg to hold it in place without locking down the tail.
    • Trim the plastic if it fouls on the hook or when you cast.
  • Retrieve: slow to moderate with subtle twitches; keep the plastic tail thumping near weed edges, drop-offs, or points.

• Scenario B: Front-mounted (inline) hook or a single hook near the head

  • Goal: keep the plastic aligned with the body while ensuring the hook still catches fish.
  • Rigging:
    • Nose-hook the plastic so the head sits over the lure and the tail can tip with every cast.
    • Alternatively, thread the plastic from the tail toward the head so the hook exits through the plastic’s head region, keeping the nose of the lure clear for a clean cast.
    • Use a small amount of glue or a bait keeper if the plastic tends to slip.
  • Retrieve: steady with short pauses to let the tail thump; keep it near structure where big fish hold.

If you can share a photo or confirm the exact model/configuration, I’ll give you a precise, step-by-step rig. Tight lines!

Nice catch. The Reed Runner Magnum Spinnerbait typically uses a single, inline hook behind the blade, so rigging a soft plastic around it is a bit different than a two-hook setup. Here are two practical approaches you can try:

Scenario A: Threaded onto the hook (most common for a single-hook spinnerbait)

• Goal: keep the plastic’s tail action while keeping the hook point accessible.
• Rigging:
  • Pick a 3–4 inch soft minnow/paddle-tail.
  • Thread the plastic onto the hook from the tail toward the head, so the plastic sits along the hook shank and the head of the plastic sits near the lure’s head.
  • Ensure the hook point remains clear for bites. If the plastic slides, dab a small amount of super glue at the head or use a tiny peg to hold it.
  • Trim the plastic’s head or body if it fouls with the blade or if the hook can’t exit cleanly.
• Retrieve: slow to moderate with light twitches; keep the tail thumping near weed edges, drop-offs, or points.

Scenario B: Nose-hook or head-anchored (if the head area interferes with the blade)

• Goal: maintain alignment with the lure body and keep the hook free for bites.
• Rigging:
  • Nose-hook the plastic so the head sits up against the lure’s head while the tail trails behind.
  • Alternatively, thread the plastic from the tail toward the head and exit the plastic near the head so the hook exits cleanly through the plastic’s head region.
  • Use a dab of glue or a small keeper to prevent slipping if needed.
• Retrieve: steady with short pauses to let the tail thump; keep it near structure.

If you share a quick photo of your exact Reed Runner Magnum model, I’ll tailor the rig precisely. For reference, you can view the product page here: Northland Reed Runner Magnum Spinnerbait. Tight lines!

Nice. With two hooks on the Reed Runner Magnum, your rigging should favor keeping both hooks accessible and preserving the plastic’s tail action.

Recommended approach: rig the plastic between the two hooks (the gap between the front hook and the bend/attachment point of the rear hook)

• Why this works: placing the plastic between hooks keeps the front hook free for bites and lets the tail swim and thump without fouling the blade or the rear hook. It also minimizes interference with the bend where the rear hook attaches.

Rigging steps:

• Pick a 3–4 inch soft minnow/paddle-tail.
• Thread the plastic from the tail toward the head so the body sits along the lure, with the head of the plastic near the lure’s head and the tail extending toward the rear hook but not past it.
• Adjust so the plastic sits neatly in the gap between the two hooks. Make sure both hooks can swing freely and aren’t snagging the plastic.
• If the plastic slides, secure the head with a tiny dab of super glue or a shallow peg/keeper to hold it in place without locking the tail’s action.
• Trim the front of the plastic if it fouls on the blade or would block a hook exit.

Retrieval tips:

• Use a slow to moderate retrieve with gentle twitches. Let the tail do most of the work near weed edges, drop-offs, and points where big fish lie in fall.
• Keep the lure close to structure and vary pauses to trigger reactive strikes.

Alternative option (if the blade/front area restricts plastic): nose-hook the plastic so the head sits against the lure’s head and the tail trails behind toward the rear hook. This keeps the front hook clear and still gives tail action, but verify the blade doesn’t push the plastic into the hook points.

If you can share a quick photo of your exact setup, I’ll tailor the placement precisely. Tight lines!