What size swivel should I use for Coho salmon?

Short answer: It can be part of the problem, yes. A 3–5 ft segment between your swivel and the lure can dull bite signals and change your presentation enough that Coho on the Skykomish might hesitate. That river often bites best with a snappier, more stealthy setup rather than a long, heavy leader.

What to try

• Shorten your leader to 12–18 inches from the swivel to the lure. This keeps lure action solid and bite detection quicker.
• Use a small ball-bearing swivel in the main line-to-leader connection (size roughly #8–#12). Pair it with a fluorocarbon leader of 12–18 inches, 12–20 lb test for clarity and strength.
• Match lure/action to the water. If you’re throwing spoons or spinners, keep a tighter system; if you’re using a dodger/flashers combo, a shorter leader often helps the blade and spoon work together better.
• Check line visibility and twist. If your line twists are a problem, a swivel helps, but a shorter leader minimizes the twist window and keeps the lure in the strike zone more reliably.
• Focus your presentation on high-percentage runs: seams, eddies, and the edges of current faster than the mid-channel. Use erratic retrieves and allow the lure to start its natural action right after the strike zone.

Quick test plan

• On your next trip, run two setups side by side for a few hours: one with 12–18" leader, another with a 3–5 ft leader. Compare bite frequency and hookups.
• If you still have no bites, consider swapping to a more natural-colored spoon/spinner and adjusting depth to the typical Coho depth in that stretch.

If you share your exact lure type, line, and current conditions (water depth, clarity, and speed), I can tailor the leader length and swivel size more precisely for the Skykomish.

Nice setup. With you being about 150 yards up from Lewis St Bridge and running a blue/silver 5/8 Little Cleo, a blue UV Vibrax #4, and a silver/nickel Dick Nite, here’s how to dial it in for Coho on the Skykomish:

• Leader and swivel setup

  • Switch to a shorter leader: 12–18 inches of fluorocarbon (12–20 lb test) from a small ball-bearing swivel (#8–#12) to your main line.
  • This keeps lure action crisp and bite signals quick, which is key in the Skykomish in this area.

• Lure depth and presentation

  • Little Cleo 5/8 oz: with a shorter leader, keep the lure in the mid-water column. If current is pushing hard, you can add a small weight above the lure to help maintain depth, but start with no extra weight and adjust as needed.
  • Vibrax #4 blue UV: this is a higher-visibility, mid-depth wobble. Use a shorter leader to preserve blade action; a quick, erratic pulse-retrieve with occasional pauses often triggers Coho in seams and transitions.
  • Dick Nite spoon: excels in timed, fluttering retrieves near the edge of current. Keep it at or just below the mid-water column; mix in short, sharp pulls followed by a brief pause.

• Depth targets and spots

  • Focus on current seams, eddies, and edges where faster water slows. Coho often hold in 6–12 ft here, depending on water clarity and flow.
  • If bites are scarce, try fishing slightly deeper (toward the 8–12 ft range) for 15–20 minutes, then back up to shallower to see where the fish are.

• Quick test plan

  • Run two setups side-by-side for a couple of hours: (A) 12–18" leader with your current lures, (B) 24–30" leader on the same lures. Compare bite frequency and hookups.
  • If no bites after a solid try, switch to a slightly brighter spoon or adjust depth by 2–3 ft and vary the retrieve tempo.

If you share water clarity/current speed that day, I’ll tailor the exact leader length and depth targets even more precisely. Stay patient and adjust by bite signals—Coho here love qualities like crisp action and well-presented depth.

Nice — that early morning window is prime for Skykomish Coho. Here’s how to optimize a 06:30–07:30 bite window, based on your current rig (Blue/Silver 5/8 Little Cleo, #4 blue UV Vibrax, silver/nickel Dick Nite) and 150 yards up from Lewis St. Bridge:

What the timing probably means

• Light is just coming in; Coho often bite best on tight, stealthy setups early, then get more selective as glare increases.
• If you didn’t see bites in that window, chances are the bite moved slightly shallower or deeper as light sharpened. Seams and eddies at first light are still your best bets.

Adjustments for the next morning

• Leader and line: 12–18" fluorocarbon (12–20 lb). Keep the swivel small (#8–#12). This preserves action in low light and reduces bite delays.
• Depth targets: In the first 20–40 minutes of daylight, start with mid-water 6–12 ft. If no action, try 8–16 ft for the next 20 minutes, then drop back to 4–8 ft as light increases.
• Lure presentation:
  • Little Cleo 5/8 oz: keep in mid-water with the shorter leader; if spacing current is strong, add a tiny split shot above the lure to maintain depth.
  • Vibrax #4 blue UV: stay tight to the leader for crisp blade action; quick, erratic retrieves with a couple of short pauses can trigger skittish fish in the first light.
  • Dick Nite: run near the edge of current, with short, sharp pulls and brief pauses.
• Add a visual attractor: a small flasher/dodger behind your main line can boost visibility in low light without washing out action. Pair with a spoon or spinner that runs clean behind it.
• Quick test plan for the next trip:
  • Run two setups: A) 12–18" leader, B) 24–30" leader. Compare bites within the same window.
  • If no bites after 30–40 minutes of light, switch depth by 2–4 ft and adjust retrieve tempo.

If you can share water clarity, current speed, and exact bite signals (or lack thereof), I’ll tailor the depth, lure order, and retrieval timing even more precisely for that morning bite.